Fishy Foot Massages & Siem Reap

Our first full day in Siem Reap, Cambodia, we decided to take it easy and just wander around to get to know the place a bit. Siem Reap is the town closest to the Angkor Archaeological Park, so it's where all the tourists stay when they come to see the temples. The town has grown into a giant tourist trap - a staggering number of markets, restaurants, and hotels, plus all the little businesses that accompany those (such as laundry services, bicycle rentals, and tuk-tuk drivers). 

We happen to be here in the low season, so most of the shops are not busy and there are a LOT of tuk-tuk drivers just hanging around. This means that everyone is both bored and wants your business. (Hellobuysomesing?!?!) It also means that the folks with good personalities really stand out! We've met a couple of really funny tuk-tuk drivers that cracked us up. We've also heard, more than once, a bored shop keeper just say "hellosomesing?" That's pretty funny, too.  :-)

In SE Asia, massage places are everywhere and we've been taking advantage of the cheap services as often as possible. Before we arrived in Siem Reap we'd already had hour long foot massages, full body massages, Thai massage, shoulder massage, and hot stone massage! But something you see all over Siem Reap are these big fish tanks with signs that say "Please feed our hungry fish your dead skin." I had heard about these before and wanted to try it, and for a whopping $2 each we got to stick our feet in these tanks for as long as we could stand it. It tickles soooooooo badly!!! I couldn't even stand to put my whole foot in there for more than a second!  The fish are really aggressive.  Here's a short video for you:

http://vimeo.com/98551809

Cambodia is naturally beautiful with a tropical climate, lots of lush greenery. This is the walkway to our hotel room (!) and a view of the badass pool that's right outside our room.

This tree looks like it has dreadlocks.

And a few more photos from our wanderings around the town....

A temple we stumbled upon:

In the market - tasty snacks of fried tarantulas and grasshoppers. You'll be pleased to know that we did NOT try these...although we paid the little boy proprietor a dollar to let us take pictures and HE ate one for us!

"Best Singers!"

I finally got two videos from the karaoke competition to upload!! The quality is bad because our internet here is really slow, but at least the audio came through loud and clear. 

This girl was told by the judges that she used too much body language in her performance:

http://vimeo.com/98552390

And this girl was our absolute favorite of the night!

http://vimeo.com/98552438

It was so much fun!

Things We've Learned in Cambodia

1. Cambodians do not know the street names or numbers. Like, AT ALL. There is basically NO REASON for the streets to even have any names, because nobody knows them.

2. Every time a waiter serves you something, they tell you to "please enjoy." So at one meal you may hear: Please enjoy your drinks! Please enjoy your bread! Please enjoy your noodles! Please enjoy your porridge! Please enjoy your fruit!  :-)

3. Gender roles are very defined and followed pretty closely. See number 4 below.

4. Accounting is nearly 100% a female occupation in Cambodia. The only males who go into accounting here are actually gay. 

5. "Hello buy something?" may be the only English that person knows. And it's pronounced: "hel low bye sum sing?"

6. Scam: women will come up to you with a baby in their arms and beg for milk for their baby. She will protest "I don't want money, only milk for my baby." But if you buy the milk, she will then promptly return it to the store and split the money with the store vendor. We read about this in advance so we didn't fall for it, but it was definitely tried on us.

7. Outside of Siem Reap and Phnom Penh (the major cities), Cambodians live in truly abject poverty. It's one of the poorest countries in the world. Living in huts made of palm leaves, only one water well (or sometimes NO water) for an entire village of 20+ families, hours commute for the kids to attend the nearest school (and so many do not go), etc.

8. Cambodians are some of the friendliest, kindest and happiest people we've ever met.

9. Families are very close knit and look after each other. Our temple guide had 26 people, all family members, living in one small house with only 2 bathrooms. He works to pay for his niece, nephew and daughter to attend school.

10. There are around 8-10 MILLION landmines still active and laying around Cambodia (left over from decades of wars). Still today, every year there are hundreds of people injured, maimed or killed by active landmines. It's quite terrifying to think about and there are some amazing relief efforts going on (we had an opportunity to visit with this group: http://www.cnn.com/2010/WORLD/asiapcf/07/29/cnnheroes.cambodia.demining/ )

11. The Khmer Rouge and Pol Pot were fucking terrorist assholes.

12. The ancient temples are over 1,000 years old and you can still see some of the writing/inscriptions and intricate carved details in the stones. Really beautiful and amazing!!!

13. The USD is the main currency here.  When you go to the ATM, US dollars come out!

Four Hours at the Bangkok Airport

With all the political conflict happening in Thailand right now, we decided that we would not go to Thailand on this trip. We were pretty bummed about it at first, but then fell in love with Vietnam so it ended up allowing us to spend more time there. So it worked out great, but we did already have one set of plane tickets booked through Bangkok, requiring us to at least fly in and out of Thailand.

So this morning we (sadly) said goodbye to Vietnam and flew to Bangkok, then piddled around the airport for 4 hours until our flight left for Siem Reap, Cambodia.

The Bangkok airport was pretty cool, and we are excited to plan a new (future) trip just to spend time in Thailand. Here are a few pics we took in the airport. Not too shabby for an airport, eh?

After we ate some amazing Thai food, got cheap massages, and finished looking at the beautiful artwork, we took a quick flight to Cambodia and made it to our hotel in Siem Reap.

So much awesome

Tonight we attended one of the highlights of my very existence. It was so phenomenal. 

It was the "BMG Best Singer" semifinals. These were the Top 10 karaoke performers from the BMG International Education group. I have no idea what the BMG International Education group is, or what its significance is, but these are some college-age kids who really love karaoke.

Buddy and I were literally the only non-Vietnamese people there. We went with our friend Moon (who is so sweet!!) - she called our hotel and asked if we wanted to go to a concert tonight. We didn't know what type of concert, but we figured it would be a fun experience to try it out....and we were NOT disappointed!!!

I really, really, really wish I could get the darn videos to upload, but our internet connection is super crappy. So you will just have to wait. But I promise, it will be worth it!

Vietnamese Cooking School

Yesterday we took a cooking class that was a whole lot of fun. It was a small group of 9 people and we started at the Hoi An market to buy all of the ingredients we would need for the day. I'm so glad we went with a guide, because the market is really overwhelming. Here are a few pics that don't do it justice. I didn't take any pics of the meat section because I just had to look at the ceiling or floor the whole time. But Buddy snapped a couple, included below.

This vendor sells various types of rice noodles :

Here are some fruits & veggies & eggs. There are tiny quail eggs, medium sized chicken eggs, and big duck eggs:

Here is a shot of one of the covered areas - there are fish vendors in the foreground, veggie vendors in the back:

And the disgusting meat photos from Buddy:

While in the meat section, this old woman with crazy eyes and a BLOODY mouth was walking around and looking at us. This is not her, because I kind of panicked when I saw her and just hauled ass out of there as quickly as possible without taking a photo.

Buddy thought she was chewing on raw meat or something. But we've since found out that it's actually a type of plant that some of the old Vietnamese ladies chew that gets them high...with a side effect of looking like a complete psychopath. (It's called Betel plant: http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Betel ). 

After purchasing our ingredients, we went on a 45 minute boat ride to a small island next to Hoi An called Thuan Tinh Island:

We then transferred from our motor boat into a couple of canoes to row into the village. I took most of the pics with the good camera, so I can't post them yet. But one of our boat mates took this for us:

I really want one of those pointy hats, but can't figure out how I would pack it home. And Buddy won't let me wear it on the plane.

After we got to the village, they showed us how the rice husks are separated from the rice itself and let us try it out:

Then they showed us how to make rice milk, which was really cool!

Next we walked to the cooking school, which was an outdoor area with a set of tables under a giant bamboo canopy:

The chef was hilarious, even without knowing English. Gestures can really get you a long way here.  She taught us how to make Vietnamese spring rolls with peanut sauce, Banh Xeo (!!) which is the yummy crispy rice pancake that we love, a vermicelli salad, and finally Pho! All of it was delicious and we got the recipes and two sets of cooking chopsticks to take home :-)

It was a really cool day!

I have no idea

Things We've Learned in Vietnam

With each country I spend time in, I like to compile a list of the interesting differences between my American/home culture and the culture I'm visiting.  Here are some of the neat things we've learned in Vietnam (so far!):

1. Sidewalks are for parking or riding your motor bike, not for walking.

2. It's ok to drive on the wrong side of the street. Also, red lights are only a suggestion.

3. Vietnamese cows are just smarter than American cows.

4. It's ok to ride your motorcycle (or bicycle) right inside a house or business. Park in the living room or kitchen, no problem!

5. You can drink iced beverages from restaurants without trepidation. Well, mostly.

6. If you hang out in a park, university students will come over to practice English with you.

7. Vietnamese iced coffee is the best coffee EVER. Even the instant stuff is pretty good. We are soooooo addicted to Vietnamese coffee!

8. There are three prices for everything - the tourist price, the expat price, and the Vietnamese price. Your bargaining skills must be very sharp here.

9. If a driver honks at you, they are not being friendly or encouraging in any way. It means you better get the hell out of the way, pronto.

10. Even when it's 110 degrees with no air conditioning, Vietnamese women will wear sweatshirts, jackets, tights, and full face masks to keep their skin from tanning.

11. There are toothpicks at every restaurant table. But if you're going to use them, you MUST cover your mouth with your other hand. Even the homeless street people cover their mouths when picking their teeth.

12. You should burn sticks of incense anywhere and everywhere! Seriously, in potted plants, cracks in the sidewalk, inside or outside, in random dirt patches. It's delightful! Buddy and I are going on an incense lighting rampage throughout Houston after we move there.

13. Buddhist chanting is mesmerizing and intoxicating.

14. It's important to put sunscreen on ALL the places. The sun is good at finding any spots you missed, even under your shirt.

15. When they say "big supermarket," they are NOT fucking around. Big C Supermarket is actually a shopping mall with bazillions of people and security. If you want to go into the grocery area, you have to check your purse in at the guard station and be subject to security pat downs upon exit!

16. You know you've finally acclimated to the heat when it's 100 degrees outside and you proclaim "oh good, it's cooled down."

17. Lots and lots of Australians visit Vietnam. Lots!!!

Da Nang

We spent the last 3 or 4 days in Danang and it was pretty fricking great!

Danang has the most beautiful white sand beaches and crystal clear blue water. 

 

In the distance is a huge female Buddha that overlooks the bay. We took a motor bike up there and she sits at a huge pagoda. It was so incredibly beautiful!!!!

There is a river that runs through the middle of Da Nang, with several cool bridges to cross it. One is the Dragon Bridge, shaped like a dragon, and on the weekend nights it actually shoots fire and smoke out of its mouth!  It was really cool. 

So many nice people just randomly come up to us to chat in Vietnam. Everyone here is so friendly and welcoming! Especially the younger folks, who love to practice their English.  We've met some really lovely people along the way.

One day we took the motor bike up to Hai Van Pass.  It's a breathtaking view of Danang bay and the city, the pictures don't nearly do it justice.

Along the way we saw a gigantic pagoda up on a hill and we stopped to explore.

Last night we found the best sandwich shop in all of Danang!  In Vietnam, you just need a little cart and an empty street corner to have a "restaurant." Seriously.

Unfortunately, the drinks available at these places come in a big giant bucket with one shared cup.  I declined, but Buddy actually drank from it and he's paying for it today. He had the honor of taking the first dose of Cipro on the trip!

We loved Hoi An so much that we decided to return for a few days.  So we will be spending the next few days in Hoi An, then back to Saigon for one night before Siem Reap for our last week.